Monstera Leaves Turning Yellow: How to Find the Cause in 3 Tests

A Monstera (Monstera deliciosa) with yellow leaves is not always sick. If only the lowest leaf turns yellow, one at a time, and the top puts out a new green leaf, the plant is replacing an old leaf. Four signs call for action: multiple yellow leaves at the same time, and a yellow, soft leaf with wet soil. A new leaf lacking splits on a mature plant and tiny dots or webbing on the underside of the leaf also call for action.

Three tests separate the causes, in this order: which leaf turned yellow, and what the soil is like 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface. If both answers point to a problem, the third test is checking the roots.

Quick summary:

• A few old leaves dropping from a plant that is doing well is normal: "leaves do not live forever" (Iowa State Extension).

• Yellow lower leaves have two common causes in a Monstera: low light or too much water (Clemson HGIC).

• Water droplets on the leaves indicate soil that is too wet: space out waterings until the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil dry out (Wisconsin Horticulture).

• A new leaf without holes or splits on an adult plant indicates a lack of light.

• A yellow leaf will not turn green again. Cut it off once it has turned completely yellow.

Monstera yellow leaf diagnosis in a table

First look at which leaf turned yellow, then inspect the soil, and only then adjust watering, light, or fertilizer.

Yellowing with a brown or black spot and a dry edge, not facing the window, has other causes, which the Monstera brown tips guide sorts out one by one.

Lower leaves yellowing one at a time: normal replacement

An old leaf turning yellow, while the rest of the Monstera is doing well, is the plant replacing a leaf. Iowa State says that if only a few old leaves drop on a healthy plant, there is no reason for concern (Iowa State Extension).

Before dropping an old leaf, the plant pulls mobile nutrients from it, mainly nitrogen, and moves them to the new leaves. What remains in the leaf is yellow pigment. This explanation comes from the Houseplant Journal, a guide specializing in indoor plants (Houseplant Journal).

Leaf replacement stops being normal in three cases:

• several yellow leaves at the same time, whereas Iowa State only considers shedding a few old leaves to be normal;

• the new leaf emerges smaller than the previous one or without fenestrations;

• the yellow leaf appears in the middle or top of the plant, rather than at the base.

Too much or too little water: how to tell on a Monstera

Both too much water and too little water cause yellow leaves and a drooping plant, which makes the same plant seem to ask for both things. Iowa State explains the trap: a root rotting in waterlogged soil no longer carries water to the leaf. The plant wilts, and the person waters it even more (Iowa State Extension).

If you watered less, then watered more, and saw the plant worsen, the roots are likely rotting. The soil separates the two causes better than the leaves.

Signs of overwatering

• The soil is moist 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface and the leaves are soft. Penn State recommends watering only when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) dry out (Penn State Extension). Moist soil at 2 inches (5 cm), by itself, only means that it is not yet time to water.

• There is standing water in the saucer under the pot. Clemson says to never let the plant sit in water (Clemson HGIC).

• The lower leaves turned yellow first.

• Water droplets appear on the leaves. The University of Wisconsin notes that Monstera leaves "sweat" (release water droplets) when the soil is too wet. In this case, space out your waterings to prevent root rot (Wisconsin Horticulture).

• Fungus gnats fly above the soil. Iowa State lists this gnat, called the fungus gnat, among the signs of overwatering.

Signs of underwatering

• The pot feels light when lifted.

• The soil is completely dry all the way down and has pulled away from the sides of the pot.

• Irrigation water runs down the side of the pot and exits through the hole without wetting the soil. Iowa State describes this case: water passes around the dry root ball and runs down the pot wall (Iowa State Extension).

• Yellow leaves feel dry and crispy rather than soft.

With underwatering, water slowly until the entire soil mix is soaked and water runs out the drainage hole. If water merely runs down the sides, water in two or three stages, waiting a few minutes in between. Watering frequency changes with the season: the University of Wisconsin advises watering less in winter. In any season, let the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil dry out before watering again. Iowa State, writing about houseplants in general, advises waiting for the soil to dry out completely. Here, the recommendation from Penn State applies, as they wrote specifically about Monstera and give a measurement you can check with your finger.

How to save a Monstera with root rot

Root rot is serious: Iowa State says that a plant with root rot rarely recovers. The chance exists when firm roots still remain. With moist soil and soft leaves, take the plant out of the pot and look at the roots. Healthy roots are firm and light-colored. Iowa State describes rotten roots as dark, soft, and easy to break (Iowa State Extension).

1. Gently clear the old, soggy soil from the roots with your hands.

2. Prune off the dark, mushy sections with clean shears, cutting back to firm root tissue.

3. Repot in fresh, fast-draining soil in a pot with drainage holes. Clemson links rot to soil that does not drain quickly and to overwatering (Clemson HGIC).

4. Water again only after the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) dry out, and empty the saucer after watering.

Penn State recommends a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Bark, perlite (lightweight white grains of volcanic rock), or charcoal make this mix looser.

When almost the entire root system has rotted, the solution is to propagate a cutting from the healthy part of the stem. The University of Wisconsin advises cutting the stem tip just below an aerial root and planting this piece in a pot (Wisconsin Horticulture). An aerial root is the thick root that emerges from the stem, above the soil.

Yellow lower leaves and new leaf without splits: low light

In low light, the monstera yellows its lower leaves and stops producing splits on new leaves. Clemson links the yellowing of lower leaves to low light or overwatering. The same source states that, under weak light, the plant does not form leaf holes (Clemson HGIC). Penn State adds that, in low light, the plant becomes leggy, with a long stem.

A new leaf without splits is the sign that separates low light from too much water. It only applies to mature plants. A young Monstera leaf is small and solid, and splits appear as the plant matures (Penn State Extension). A plant that once produced split leaves and began putting out solid, smaller leaves is getting too little light.

Move the pot near a bright window, without direct sunlight on the leaves. In Brazil, a north-facing window gets the most sun throughout the day; a south-facing one gets less.

Yellow patch that dries on the window side: direct sun

Direct sun burns Monstera leaves: the yellow spot appears on the side facing the window and then dries out. Penn State and NC State recommend bright indirect light (NC State Extension). The University of Wisconsin warns that a plant moved outdoors needs to adjust to strong light gradually, or it will burn. The same university accepts direct sun during the Wisconsin winter, where sunlight is weak in that season. In Brazil, the Penn State and NC State recommendation applies: bright indirect light all year round, the safest option for the leaf.

Move the pot out of direct sunlight or hang a sheer curtain across the window. Scorched leaves will not recover, but new foliage will emerge normally.

Yellow leaves after cold, purchase, or relocation

Lower leaves that yellow a few days after a cold snap, a purchase, or a change of location are a reaction to stress. Iowa State cites two causes of yellow leaves and leaf drop in these cases. One is cold during transit from the store to your home. The other is a sudden change in light (Iowa State Extension).

The temperature range recommended by Penn State and NC State runs from 16 to 29 °C. Below 10 °C, the Monstera stops growing, according to the University of Wisconsin. In Brazil, the risk runs from June to August, mainly in the South and in the mountains of the Southeast. Indoors, the cold comes through open windows at night and drafts from air conditioning.

After buying a plant, pick a bright spot and keep it there. Moving the pot every week repeats the stress. If new leaves emerge green and normal in size, the plant has adjusted.

Entire plant pale and new leaf smaller: lack of fertilizer

When the entire Monstera turns pale and the new leaf comes out smaller, it lacks fertilizer. Iowa State says a plant with too little fertilizer usually yellows and drops leaves (Iowa State Extension).

The University of Wisconsin recommends fertilizing from spring to fall. In Brazil, that runs from September to May. Penn State would also fertilize in winter, once a month, but Iowa State directs fertilizing only when the plant is growing. Iowa State applies here, because fertilizer an idle plant does not use turns into salt in the soil. Use a complete fertilizer for foliage plants, at half or a quarter of the label dose. Iowa State explains that this dose is designed for outdoor plants, which grow more.

Too much fertilizer also turns the leaf yellow. Iowa State describes the excess: yellow or brown leaves and long, thin stems. In severe cases, a white crust of salt appears on the soil surface or on the rim of the pot (Iowa State Extension). If you see the crust, stop fertilizing and water thoroughly with plenty of clean water until it drains out the hole. Iowa State recommends this watering to leach away the fertilizer salt.

Stippling, webbing, or cottony fluff on the underside: pests

When the yellow appears as tiny spots rather than across the entire leaf, pests are usually the cause. Penn State lists the pests of the Monstera: scale, aphids, mealybugs, mites, thrips, and fungus gnats (Penn State Extension). Turn the leaf over and look at the underside in good light.

Spider mite. The leaf becomes speckled with light dots. The mite is tiny and lives on the underside of the leaf. To find it, tap the leaf over a sheet of white paper: if moving dots fall off, it is a mite. With high mite populations, a fine webbing appears on the leaf and stem (Iowa State Extension). The full treatment is in the spider mite guide.

Mealybug. It appears as white cottony tufts in the leaf axil (the point where the leaf meets the stem) and on the underside. Mealybugs release a sugary liquid that leaves the lower leaves sticky and shiny (Iowa State Extension). The scale insect and mealybug guide shows how to remove the tufts from a large-leaf plant.

A Monstera catches the same pests that hit other indoor plants. Our guide to houseplant pests helps identify each pest by the symptoms left on the leaf.

Is your plant actually a Monstera?

Three similar plants are confused with Monstera, and each requires its own care. NC State lists the first two as the most commonly confused with Monstera deliciosa (NC State Extension).

• Monstera adansonii: leaves are substantially smaller, with oval holes piercing the leaf interior. Penn State notes that it shares common names with Monstera deliciosa.

• Mini monstera (*Rhaphidophora tetrasperma*): small leaves with deep splits, but belongs to a completely different genus.

• Tree philodendron (*Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum*): large, split leaves without holes. It can be confused with the Monstera. Clemson explains the difference: the Monstera has holes and splits in the leaf, while philodendrons only have splits. The tree philodendron used to be classified as a philodendron. The guide on philodendron with yellow leaves covers the tree philodendron.

If the plant arrived without a label, confirm the species before changing your watering routine. The Bloom app identifies the plant from a photo of the leaf.

Should you cut off a yellow Monstera leaf?

Yes, once it turns completely yellow or becomes limp. A yellow leaf will never turn green again, and removing it does not harm the plant.

Cut the leaf stem close to the main stem using clean shears. Wear gloves: Penn State recommends gloves when handling the plant because of the risk of skin irritation (Penn State Extension). Do not cut green leaves "as a precaution": a green leaf still feeds the plant.

Pick up cut leaves away from dogs and cats. The ASPCA classifies the Swiss cheese plant as toxic to dogs and cats: eating the plant causes mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting (ASPCA).

Cutting the leaf does not fix the cause. If the leaf turned yellow from too much water, the next one will also turn yellow until the roots are treated. On an anthurium with yellow leaves, another plant in the same family, lower leaves turning yellow one at a time is also normal leaf shedding.

Frequently asked questions

Will a yellow Monstera leaf ever turn green again?

No. Correcting watering, lighting, or feeding protects new growth, but a leaf that has already yellowed stays yellow. Cut it away once it has turned completely yellow. The clear sign that your fix worked is the next leaf: it must emerge green and at least as large as the previous one.

What does an overwatered Monstera look like?

Lower leaves turn yellow and limp, and the plant wilts even though the soil feels moist 2 inches (5 cm) down. Sometimes beads of water appear on the leaf margins. At the root level, rotted sections turn dark brown and mushy. The fix involves trimming off rotted roots and waiting to water until the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) dry out.

Are yellow leaves on a Monstera always caused by overwatering?

No. Overwatering is simply one frequent cause. Iowa State also lists underwatering, nutrient deficiencies, cold drafts, and sudden light shifts. Normal shedding of old foliage also turns leaves yellow. Testing the soil 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface alongside checking for soft leaves separates overwatering from other causes in one minute.

Is my Monstera dying?

In most cases, no, provided the stem stays firm and a new leaf emerges from the top. Slide the plant out of the pot and check the root system. If you find firm, light-colored roots, correct watering, light, and temperature exposure. If nearly all roots have rotted, take a cutting from the stem tip cut just beneath an aerial root.

Your first step with your Monstera

Start with the location of the yellow leaf. A single lower leaf, one at a time, with new growth at the top: leave the plant alone. A limp leaf with moist soil: check the roots today. A small, unsplit new leaf on a mature specimen: move the pot closer to a window. Tiny speckles or cottony fuzz: flip the leaf to inspect for pests. Yellowing on any houseplant follows the same three diagnostic questions in our yellow leaves guide. When symptoms involve more than simple yellowing, our what is wrong with my plant guide breaks down the telltale signs for any potted plant.